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Sunday morning, July 3, 2011
We’ve been experiencing lots of severe Internet connection problem for the past several days. As a consequence, we’ve decided to send you only the last journal entry now in hopes that you have the latest update.
It’s early Sunday morning. People are getting up. Ellen is making coffee; she usually does the final editing of these journal entries, so if you see a lot of typos, please understand. The electrical cord necessary to send these words by computer hookup is still being used to run a fan in the women’s quarters; as soon as we can make a connection to the modem and router, we will send this to you. While we wait, we wish you all a blessed Sunday morning.
More first about yesterday, Saturday, a really big day. For the first time since being here,
all of us were out together, doing the same things. Because the orphanage truck is still undergoing repairs (very slow repairs), arrangements were made for us to secure the private use of a “tap-tap” (Camyonet, in Creole), that is, a small pickup fitted out with a fiber-glass roof and wooden benches anchored onto the sides of the bed. Painted in an array of bright red, yellows, blues, and greens, nearly all tap-taps have names emblazoned on their fronts, sides, and backs: Merci, Jesus! Almighty God! God is Love—all, of course, in Creole.
With two of our interpreters, Johnson and Andronic, we headed out about 9:30 for an all-day tour of Port au Prince. Although we were told that traffic on Saturdays is generally light, few of us could tell the difference between a Friday and Saturday; traffic flows in four lanes on two-lane streets. Cars pass one another with abandon (but apparently without too many accidents). Few traffic lights govern anything. If a driver’s car or truck stalls (as our did) or breaks down, repairs are frequently made on the spot. Vendors are everywhere. Want a bottle of water? “One dolla, pleeze.” As you might imagine, it’s hot inside a tap-tap, and we often change places to take advantage of an open window. Anything of value needs to be well inside the vehicle. As again you might imagine, our cameras were working almost constantly, clicking away to capture scenes and sights both refreshingly beautiful and appallingly awful.
After an hour’s ride, our driver took us to well-guarded, gated market full of Haitian crafts, paintings, sculpture, houseware, dresses, hats, Voodoo memorabilia, home-crafted leather shoes, religious art, and so on. Nearly everyone bought something. Karen, Andy’s granddaughter, for example, bought a white enameled cup for her Trinadadian husband. ; and Andy bought a small statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus.
Next we drove quickly through Cite Soleil, the slum district of Port au Prince. The stench was almost overwhelming, the streets full of brackish black sewer water, the buildings in terrible disrepair, the people obviously poor, downtrodden, and desperate. But nonetheless, nearly all were working and busy. Many push carts and wheelbarrows filled with the castoffs of Haitian life: junk wood and steel, old tires, worn-out shoes, and any such lower-end debris that might somehow be sold for frightfully small profit, a profit that just might buy some rice, something to drink.

Life is Cite Soleil is only degrees less dignified that life in most of Port au Prince. Garbage is everything; burning trash on the street sides is common. Exhaust fumes blacken the atmosphere. With little, if any running water and working sewers, people simply make do, with bathing while standing in a large bowl, often without privacy. Water for washing is hand-pumped from public facilities and hauled to whatever is called home. Food is cooked over small charcoal fires. Plastic containers litter every street and walkway. In short, life is dirty and rough in Port au Prince. Yes, it was the poorest city in the Western hemisphere before the earthquake. Now, after the earthquake, it is even more so the poorest. Large tent “cities” occupy every conceivable space. At times one begins to imagine that dead sardines in a can have more room than many Haitian families in their squalid hovels and tarp tents.

Courtney celebrates her 18th birthday! Whoopee!
From Cite Soliel we stopped to photograph the collapsed national capitol building and then went to the metal-workers district, a fairly large neighborhood where men and women take apart steel drums to fashion beautiful wall art that is intricately cut, hand-punched, and some annealed with bright-colored paints. Here life is a little better, and we bought several dozen small pieces for $80; we’ll bring that artwork back with us and find a way to sell it to raise more money for the orphanage.
Once back at the orphanage, Ellen baked and Carly decorated a cake for Courtney whose birthday brings her to eighteen years of grace. Candles were lit in the evening darkness, Courtney made her wishes, we sang “Happy Birthday” a bunch of times, and we all filled up on sweet cake and chocolate icing before getting ready for bed. Courtney is such a lovely young women. May God bless her all through her many years to come.
And lest it goes unmentioned, this too: we had goat meat for supper. Goats roam the streets and alleyways. One less so now.